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Monday, September 19, 2016

Saint Peter, Paddington

Eden sea urchin on crumpet at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney

Seafood isn't the first thing that springs to mind when you think of brunch, but Saint Peter doesn't believe in any rules. It's the first solo venture for chef Josh Niland (ex-head chef of Cafe Nice and Fish Face) and seafood is front and centre of everything. If sea urchin crumpets haven't already flooded your Instagram stream, they will soon.

Dining room at Saint Peter in Paddington Sydney

Saint Peter has been open for less than a fortnight but already it's attracted a steady stream of Sydney chefs through its doors. The narrow 34-seater is already booking out for dinners. The walk-in only brunch service on weekends is far better suited for the less organised.

Angass oysters at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Angassi oysters $5.50 each

Oysters at 10am? Why not. Today's brunch menu includes oysters from Horse Island and Clair de Lune but it's hard to go past angassi oysters, Australia's native flat oysters that are almost smoky in flavour.

Mooloolabah albacore salad at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Mooloolabah albacore salad with sorrel, radish and vanilla $18

Mooloolabah albacore salad is a sunny way to start our day. Hunks of tuna are brightened with crunchy breakfast radishes and lemony sorrel.

Sweet and sour Ulladulla blue mackerel at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Sweet and sour Ulladulla blue mackerel on toast $16

Crowd favourite dish of the day is the sweet and sour Ulladulla blue mackerel on toast, a whole fish smothered with a zingy onion relish that gets our tastebuds firing.

Ulladulla blue mackerel on toast at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Sweet and sour Ulladulla blue mackerel on toast

The presentation is ridiculously cute too.

Eden sea urchin crumpet at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Eden sea urchin crumpet $22

The sea urchin crumpet is fast becoming a signature dish because really, why hasn't anyone thought of this sooner? It's a visually striking dish, with hands-on interactivity as diners try and transfer the sea urchin petals from shell to crumpet.

Eden sea urchin on crumpet at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Eden sea urchin crumpet 

It's beautiful. And it tastes amazing. The crumpet tastes more like deep-fried bread, but it's a fine carriage for the buttery sea urchin petals. I have to admit though, I saved one petal to savour on its own as my final mouthful. Of all savoury dishes. Am I the only person to save the best for last?

John Dory liver and parsley on toast at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
John Dory liver and parsley on toast $12

John Dory liver and parsley on toast is more proof that more exciting toast toppings exist than smashed avocado.

John Dory liver and parsley on toast at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
John Dory liver and parsley on toast 

The liver is cooked to a reassuring pink so it feels almost like a fish-flavoured pate in the mouth. I could have eaten this twice over.

Salt and vinegar onion rings at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Salt and vinegar onion rings $10 

One of the few non-seafood savouries are salt and vinegar onion rings. Get them. The salt and vinegar tang will transport you straight to the salt-tinged spray of waves at the beach. And rather than douse each giant onion ring life buoy with vinegar, the onion rings themselves taste pickled. It means the batter stays super crunchy while you get a burst of vinegar with every bite. Genius.

Black flathead rillettes with radish scales at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Black flathead rillettes with witlof and roast almonds $16

Flathead rillettes arrive hidden beneath overlapping radish scales.

Black flathead rillettes beneath the radish scales at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Black flathead rillettes with witlof and roast almonds

It's another firm favourite. The rillettes are soft and creamy with a textural crunch provided by the boats of witlof, radish discs and finely chopped roast almonds.

Hand picked Ballina spanner crab omelette at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Hand picked Ballina spanner crab omelette $24

We finish up with the hand picked Ballina spanner crab omelette, a substantial serve piled with a generous amount of crab across the top. The puddle of fish broth at the bottom is fantastic too, tying everything together with umami resplendence.

Julie's kouign amman at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Julie's kouign amman $12

We're still chugging through our Artificer filter coffee ($5) by the time we order desserts. There's no espresso machine onsite but if you ask nicely, they'll give you filter coffee top-ups for free. Win.

We ordered two serves of Julie's kouign amman to share between the six of us. It's not your classic caramelised Breton pastry but more of a sticky syrupy chewiness that your dentist should never see. Anyone with crowns or fillings should approach with care.

Lemon tart at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Lemon tart $16

The lemon tart is its polar opposite, so soft and wobbly it trembles on the plate.

Lemon tart at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Lemon tart 

We manage to nab a slice of the lemon tart while it was still warm from the oven. The flaky pastry and the fragile filling reminds me immediately of daan tart custard tarts at yum cha, only lemon flavoured. The delicate thinness of the pastry base is awe-inspiring too.

The swooning over this tart is unanimous.

Clothbound Maffra cheddar and Belrose honeycomb at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney
Clothbound Maffra cheddar and Belrose honeycomb $16

And because everybody loves cheese, we order the clothbound Maffra cheddar with Belrose honeycomb too. The sharp bitey cheddar is the ideal match for the floral notes of honeycomb. The shavings of toast are impressively crisp.

Simple assembly. Quality ingredients. Saint Peter to a tee.

Dining room and waitstaff at Saint Peter by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney

Saint Peter Australian fish eatery by Chef Josh Niland in Paddington Sydney


Saint Peter Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Saint Peter
362 Oxford Street, Paddington, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 8937 2530

Opening hours
Brunch/lunch Saturday and Sunday 10am-3pm
Dinner Wednesday to Sunday 5.30pm til late (bookings recommended)
Closed Monday and Tuesday


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posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 9/19/2016 12:51:00 am


Monday, September 12, 2016

Meatmaiden, Melbourne

Meat dry aging in the cabinet at Meatmaiden in Melbourne

Meat. It takes centre stage at Melbourne's Meatmaiden, showcased in a backlit display cabinet like precious jewels. Forget about Breakfast at Tiffany's. I'd rather eat my croissant with this view instead.

I visited Meatmaiden a little while back on a work trip to Melbourne. Currently I'm a few days post-double wisdom teeth removal - hence the missing post from last week - and if there's one thing that a sore jaw makes you secretly pine for, it's the chewy satisfaction of meat. Like a real sucker for punishment, I've looked longingly at these photos during the editing process. I can't wait to chew on both sides of my mouth, allowing meat juices to flood my palate before slowly swallowing.

Bar area and interior decor at Meatmaiden in Melbourne

Meatmaiden is the sister restaurant to the more barbecue-centric Meatmother in Richmond. Its city location along Little Collins Street in the CBD makes Meatmaiden a lot more accessible. You have to descend deep into the bowels of a building basement, but that makes your first encounter even more memorable. Is this the right place? How many more stairs are there? Are we there yet?

Rangers Valley tomahawk rib eye on the bone at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Rangers Valley tomahawk rib eye on the bone dry-aging in the cabinet

All is forgiven once the landing spits you out into a stylised steakhouse that feels more like a gentleman's club. The cavernous dining room combines clean lines, gleaming tiles and splashes of red amongst timber fittings.

Compilmentary crisps at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Complimentary crisps

The menu is larger than you'd expect, broken up into small plates and meat from the smoker or the grill. Non-carnivores aren't ignored either. "Not meat" includes two seafood and two vegetarian options and the sides menu yields offers salads, roasted vegetables, mashed potato and mac & cheese.

If the process of deciding what to order is all too hard, you can go with the chef's choice menu at $53 per person. We chose our own dishes though, and even with way too much for three females, our bill only came to $46 per person. We definitely could have skipped a dish. The portions are huge - or maybe that's just because we're used to Sydney prices for Sydney (smaller) portions.

Burnt ends at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Burnt ends $14

We kick things off with burnt ends, the pointy and fatty end of a smoked brisket, tumbled in a sticky barbecue sauce. There's plenty to go around as we savour its sweet smokiness.

Beef intercostal at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Beef intercostal with burnt pearl onions and butternut puree $15

Intercostals are the muscles found between the ribs, often seen in Korean restaurants as rib fingers. Here the beef intercostals are cooking to a melting softness, served with pearl onions roasted until caramelised and slightly burnt. Dollops of butternut puree and slivers of radish help cut through the richness.

Shrimp cornbread with grilled prawns at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Shrimp cornbread with grilled prawns and chipotle butter $14

We also hit up the shrimp cornbread, less of a muffin and more of a bread slice, adorned with grilled prawns, salad greens and lashings of chipotle butter.

Rangers Valley wagyu brisket at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
20-hour Rangers Valley wagyu brisket with Tasmanian pepperberry rub (200g) $26

The Rangers Valley wagyu brisket is a vision to behold, a sigh of fatty lusciousness draped across today's hipster must-have, the enamelware tray. You can see the glistening pockets of fat, the visible smoke ring and the way the protein fibres are ready to fall away with the nudge of a fork. It's gloriously rich and tender.

Confit lamb ribs with lemon crumb at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Confit lamb ribs with lemon crumb $22

The confit lamb ribs are much larger in portion in size than we'd expected. At $22, we'd expected a small serving, not a mini mountain of seven ribs.The fat has been rendered terrifically well, creating mouthfuls of crisp and caramelised juiciness on the bone. The lemon crumb is a clever way to introduce tang and texture.

Gippsland pasture-fed beef short rib at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Gippsland pasture-fed beef short rib $28

And because we really want to give our arteries a workout, we order the Gippslands pasture-fed beef short rib too. It's another wonderment of carnivorous bliss, combining beefy fattiness with a hum of intense smokiness.

Hot sauce and barbecue sauce at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Hot sauce and bbq sauce

Metal buckets containing bottles of hot sauce and barbecue sauce allow you to go as wild as you please. I go a little crazy on both, sopping up puddles of sauce with hunks of protein.

Shaved fennel and pomegranate salad at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Shaved fennel and pomegranate salad $9

Needless to say, the shaved fennel and pomegranate salad provides some much needed acidic relief among the meatfest. It's fresh, clean and bright, and just what our tastebuds (and arteries) need.

Spring onion mash with gravy at Meatmaiden in Melbourne
Spring onion mash with gravy $10

The spring onion mash fulfils our carb quotient. Buttery mashed potato in a lake of gravy is just too good to resist.

We found this was incredible value for some mighty fine protein. Would definitely visit again. Would definitely skip lunch in preparation.

Meatmaiden on Little Collins Street in Melbourne


Meatmaiden Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Meatmaiden
Basement, 195 Little Colins Street, Melbourne
Tel: +61 (03) 9078 7747

Opening hours
Monday to Saturday 12pm-3pm and 5pm til late


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posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 9/12/2016 12:23:00 am


Monday, August 29, 2016

Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands

Injera, gomen be-sega, ky sega wot, atkelet and lamb tibs at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands

Ethiopian restaurants in Sydney are few and far between but that makes Aaboll Cafe even more of a treasure, tucked in amongst the multicultural hubbub that is Merrylands. Walk past the cafe set-up out the front and step through to a rear dining room splashed with colour. The cheeriness of decor is matched by a warm and cheerful reception from staff, happy to lead any newcomers through their comprehensive Ethiopian menu.

Ethiopian coffee set-up at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Wall mural backdrop against the set-up for an Ethiopian coffee ceremony

Order individual dishes or get a combination platter for a taste of several dishes. A clear demarcation between vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes makes ordering easy for non-meat eaters. Many practising Ethiopian Orthodox observe regular fasting days where only vegan food is allowed.

Kitfo raw minced beef at Ethiopian restaurant Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Kitfo $17
Raw minced beef tossed with hot chilli, cardamom and herb infused butter

One of my favourite Ethiopian dishes is kitfo, a raw minced beef dish that feels like an African take on steak tartare. It's an extraordinarily large serving here, the minced beef mixed through chilli, spices and cardamon butter. The beef can be cooked lightly if you prefer.

Injera Ethiopian bread with ayib cottage cheese, chilli pepper and kitfo raw beef at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Injera, chilli pepper and ayib cottage cheese served with the kitfo raw beef mince

The kitfo is eaten with injera, a sourdough flatbread that looks like a spongy pancake. Unravel the neat little scroll and use it to scoop up a little beef mince, some ayib - a fresh housemade cottage cheese - and a pinch of chilli pepper. It's a terrific combo.

Injera, gomen be-sega, ky sega wot, atkelet and lamb tibs at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Meat combination platter $18
Three meat and two vegetarian dishes

Ethiopian cuisine centres around injera. It's eaten daily in Ethiopia, made from a fermented batter of teff flour. The thin batter is smooth on one side and bubbled on the other, a little like a soft crumpet. Meat stews, cooked vegetables and salads are often piled across the top. Injera acts as both a plate and spoon, soaking up all the residual juices so the "plate" itself can be eaten.

Ethiopian lamb tibs at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Lamb tibs
Pan fried lamb strips with onion, tomatoes and herbs 

Our meat combination platter provides a scoop each of three different meat dishes plus two vegetarian dishes. Lamb tibs is a classic Ethiopian dish, cubed lamb pan-fried with tomatoes, onion and chilli.

Ethiopian kye sega wot beef simmered in herb infused butter at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Kye sega wot 
Tender beef simmered in herb infused butter with chilli, spices and paprika

The slight sourness of the injera provides a welcomed counterbalance to the spiced curies. Sure you could use cutlery but using your fingers is so much more fun. We pinch bits of meat and vegetables between the soft crepe. The kye sega wot, a slow-simmered beef is especially tender, and flavoured with a complex layering of chilli and spices.

Ethiopian gomen be-sega beef with collard greens at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Gomen be-sega
Beef with collard greens

Gomen be-sega is a comfort food dish of beef, onion and garlic cooked with collard greens. If there's a tastier way to eat your greens, let me know.

Ethiopian atkelet carrot, potatoes and string beans at Aaboll Cafe, Merrylands
Atkelet 
Carrot, potatoes and string beans

Break up the protein overload with mouthfuls of atkelet, a jumble of carrot batons, string beans and slices of potato tinged yellow with tumeric. A side scoop of dressed garden salad fulfils all your vitamin needs.

It's worth stopping in on weekdays for breakfast too. Morning options include feefer, a special dish of injera mixed with a beef or chicken spicy sauce, cooked fava beans and chechebsa, a flat bread served with herbed butter, paprika and honey.

Aaboll Cafe Ethiopian restaurant in Merrylands Sydney


Aaboll Cafe Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Aaboll Cafe
140 Merrylands Road, Merrylands, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 8840 9076

Opening hours
Monday to Friday 7am-9pm
Saturday 12pm-9pm
Sunday 2pm-8.30pm


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posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 8/29/2016 02:05:00 am


Monday, August 22, 2016

Sixpenny, Stanmore

Freshly shaved black truffle on the St Honore at Sixpenny in Stanmore

If there's one dessert you must hunt down right now it's the black truffle St Honore at Sixpenny. Originally only available for special occasion pre-orders, the dessert was such a hit that the kitchen will now occasionally make whole ones available for the day's diners. Individual slices are available as an additional dessert course until it sells out. It always does.

Sebastien Brunet vouvray and Pyramid Valley Vineyards amber wine at Sixpenny, Stanmore
2014 Sebastien Brunet Vouvray Demi Sec 'La Folie' chenin blanc - Loire Valley, France $19
and 2015 Pyramid Valley Vineyards 'On Skins' amber wine - Marlborough, NZ $24

I first visited Sixpenny in 2012. I still smile at the memory of it. I remember the dishes as fine examples of complex simplicity, uncluttered by excessive ingredients or unnecessary techniques. A large group of us reserved the private dining room, separated from the kitchen by a giant window that ran the length of the room. The free floor show provided by the chefs was fascinating. We watched them working assiduously throughout the entire lunch service. They diplomatically ignored our gawking faces plastered up against the window.

Today it's just the three of us in the main dining room, a noticeably different dynamic as various parts of the room burst into conversation or laughter. Floor staff float graciously between tables.

Other changes have been afoot. Former co-head chef James Parry left the kitchen in February this year. That leaves Chef Daniel Puskas in sole charge of the kitchen.

Snacks to start our degustation at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Snacks

Two degustation lengths continue to be available for diners at both lunch and dinner. The small menu at $115 runs at seven courses. The large menu includes an additional course each of savoury and dessert for $145.

We choose the small menu.

Lightly pickled cucumber with rose and raspberry at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Lightly pickled cucumber with rose and raspberry

A trio of snacks is the first to arrive. Mini towers of pickled cucumber are just the thing to kickstart our appetite, crowned with fuchsia pink shavings of rose and raspberry.

Pumpkin scallop at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Pumpkin scallop

The pumpkin scallop refers to the puck of tender pumpkin hidden within a deep fried fritter ball, dusted in pumpkin salt.

Green tomato and cheese gougeres at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Green tomato and cheese gougeres

My favourite snack of the three is the green tomato and cheese gougere. Trying to bite through the cloud of aged cheddar curls gives us the giggles but we're immediately silenced by the sweet and savoury burst of green tomato marmalade inside. I could have eaten a dozen of these alone.

Housemade sourdough with mascarpone butter at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Housemade sourdough with mascarpone butter

The housemade sourdough is warm from the oven, still noisily crusty on the outside with a pillow-soft core. The mascarpone butter is so good I could've eaten it with a spoon. I slather it an inch-thick across my bread instead.

Venison tartare with boudin noir baked beetroot and hazelnut at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Venison tartare with boudin noir baked beetroot and hazelnut

Venison tartare is not appear as you'd ordinarily expect. It's not until you slice through the crimson wall of beetroot that you spot the hand-chopped venison nestled beneath the nest of hazelnut.

Does Sixpenny has a knack of pairing proteins with nuts? I think so. Their former signature dish - mud crab with macadamia cream - created one of those light bulb moments of clarity. It made so much sense. Hazelnut and raw venison is another one. The nutty sweetness of hazelnut works so well against game meat. It's the texture too - microplaned into a kind of ethereal fairy dust.

Potatoes with oyster and raw mushroom at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Potatoes with oyster and raw mushroom

We marvel over the sculptural plating of the potatoes with mushroom before gently dismantling it. Our forks sink through the chunks of soft-cooked potato cooked in rye butter. Across the top are sails of raw mushroom slices, covered in mushroom powder. Ribboned throughout it all is a velvety smooth oyster mushroom emulsion.

The umami notes in this dish are incredible. Who needs meat when you have flavour-packed vegetarian dishes like this one?

Housemade malt and honey sourdough at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Housemade malt and honey sourdough

Our server comes around with a basket of housemade malt and honey sourdough that nobody can resist. We can smell the honey even before it is carefully dispensed onto our plates. The sourdough is so crustily good here I wish I could buy an entire loaf.

Spanish mackerel with radicchio and fermented cucumber at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Spanish mackerel with radicchio and fermented cucumber

The Spanish mackerel is covered by a curl of char-grilled Treviso radicchio.

Spanish mackerel beneath the radicchio at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Spanish mackerel beneath the radicchio

It's not until we pull back the covers that we find the Coffs Harbour Spanish mackerel hiding underneath. The fish is cooked masterfully, flaking apart with just a gentle nudge of our forks. The sauce is fermented cucumber and tomato essence. We revel in the nuances of tomato against the gentle bitterness of the radicchio and the mackerel.

Smoked duck with witlof and plum at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Smoked duck with witlof and plum

The smoked duck is a breast that has been smoked with sage and hickory and aged for one week. We get echoes of Christmas ham in this dish, both in texture and taste. The duck skin has a smoky intensity to it, and the witlof segment with plum caramel provide counterbalances of bitterness and sweet.

Mead vinegar custard with frozen raspberry and strawberry at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Mead vinegar custard with frozen raspberry and strawberry

Our pre-dessert is another example of beauty in simplicity. An elongated quenelle of mead vinegar custard is the dam holding back a flood of frozen raspberry segments. We alternate between mouthfuls of silky custard, cold pops of raspberry and the sweet puddle of strawberry puree at the bottom. It's a terrifically elegant palate cleanser.

Staff presenting the whole St Honore to guests at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Presenting the St Honore to guests

We'd been looking forward to the St Honore throughout our meal and get a rush when the entire tart suddenly materialises at our table. It's an opportunity for us to see the St Honore in its entirety before being sliced into individual portions. After leaving our table it tours the room, prompting a lunge for phones and cameras by most diners. The chef smiles wryly through it all, patiently waiting for each photoshoot to finish.

Whole St Honore before slicing at Sixpenny in Stanmore
St Honore

And can you blame us? The St Honore is a picture of perfection. Literally. I could look at this photo all day, admiring each perfectly piped disc of cream and the glistening allure of toffee on each profiterole.

Black truffle St Honore at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Black truffle St Honore

You can add the black truffle St Honore (if it's available) to your degustation for $25. We elected to swap out our dessert course for the St Honore instead, paying an additional $10.

Profiteroles filled with hazelnut cream encircling the black truffle St Honore at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Profiteroles filled with hazelnut cream

The smell of truffle is intense, wispy flakes piled across the surface. A ring of profiteroles around the edge are filled with hazelnut cream.

Freshly shaved black truffle on the St Honore at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Freshly shaved black truffle on the St Honore

We scoop up forkfuls of whipped cream and chiboust, piped on a golden base of flaky mille-feuille pastry. After one mouthful we wonder aloud whether we should order another slice, but really our eyes are far bigger than our stomachs. It's actually a huge slice.

I eat some of the truffle slices with the dessert. I reserve some to slowly savour on their own, quietly appreciating their gentle brittleness.

It's a fitting finale to a thoughtfully orchestrated meal. Service was just the right balance of friendly but not overly invasive attentiveness too. And having the chefs sporadically come out to deliver dishes to diners (Chef Daniel Puskas came out twice to our table) is always a nice touch.

Restaurant garden at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Sixpenny garden

After your meal, don't forget to check out the kitchen garden out the back. We had an abbreviated tour from our server before she had to return to the dining room but you can stay and poke around as long as you please.

Wild ginger growing in the restaurant garden at Sixpenny in Stanmore
Wild ginger growing in the restaurant garden

Truffle season will soon be coming to an end so go visit for the black truffle St Honore while you can!

Sixpenny in Stanmore


Sixpenny Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Sixpenny
83 Percival Road, Stanmore, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9572 6666

Opening hours
Lunch Saturday and Sunday from 12pm
Dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 6pm


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posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 8/22/2016 01:08:00 am



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